Travel notes. Days 48-53.

Yangsho the day time and at the night time is two different cities.
Decibels and lumens at the night time exceed the limits in this tiny town. It looks like neither one of Las Vegas, nor to Ibiza in the concentration of various entertainment venues, bars, restaurants, clubs. On the main street – West Street starting at 19 pm and up to 23 hours driving speed chelovekopotoka 1 kilometer per hour and more like a change to the circle line in the Moscow subway in rush hour. This night markets, variety shows in the streets, fun and frenzy. Hide from the noise of the streets can be either on the embankment of the River Lee, who was chosen by fishermen and traders street junk food, or in one of the many bars on the roof.
Morning – is a quiet county town, with beautiful scenery unusual karst mountains, small streets with street junk food, a variety of shops and local artisans who sell all sorts of trinkets made with their own hands. Closer to 11 am awake tourists who take on rental bikes and zapolonyayut all roads within a radius of 20 kilometers from the city and in the city.
The climate is warmer and wetter. Afternoon around 33, 24 at night. Comfortable place. So far, I like it here more than anywhere else in China. If not yet these crowds of Chinese tourists and three times inflated prices for everything … A couple of days come to an end, national holidays, maybe something change.

Landmarks Yangsho

To orientate themselves on the ground to take the electric scooter rental and tourist map and go to the main attractions. Roads cork. On roadsides cork. On the path jams. The sights literally not get. Have you ever seen a plug of cyclists? Something like I watched during the New Year in Goa a couple of years ago. When in addition to an influx of tourists in the new year, here gathered for the festival of music fans kislotonoy. So also foll-moon patry coincided on the same dates.
I’ll be back to China. Chinese “do” attractions of all. And of the attractions they make money. It’s the law here. Growing beside the road banyan (tree so much). They are his garden and collect money for the entrance to the viewing. Colored lanterns illuminate the cave – opa and the second point of interest is ready. And interestingly, the queues are to see. Such sights are not for me and I’m going to climb away from the city to the famous karst mountains (you saw them in the movie Avatar, which filmed here), a ride along one of the most beautiful rivers in China and get lost somewhere among the rice terraces.
In the most interesting places is my scooter would not let me. And I’m a little afraid of the fact that the battery in the scooter can sit at any time and I somehow have to choose again. Minimum goal was accomplished. The day I drove nearly 50 miles on a single battery, which is very good. Examined all the main attractions (most of the outside), got an idea of the scale and the most interesting areas for themselves.
In the evening, met in a bar on the roof of his hostel group of Russian children who live and work in Guangzhou for 3 years. It’s nice to socialize and have a good time with them.

The next day, another true my dream.
I originally planned to travel from Guilin to Yangsho on water. The trip takes all day. But due to the fact that the train arrived in the late afternoon, I did not lose a day and went to Yangsho bus.
Arrange a river cruise still like, at least in the vicinity of Yangsho. The hostel I was trying to find someone who wants to share with me the cost and rent a boat. So I met two girls from Israel. While we were having breakfast and planning the journey, I told them about my trip yesterday to e-bike. Impressed, they decided not to go on the boat and persuaded me to another Moto day. In the rental until the selected bike acquainted with American Oscar. He, too, is going to spend today on wheels. He’s doing it for the past three days and advises to join him, because he knows a really cool place where tourists do not get. Plus, he speaks perfect Chinese. We agree. In addition, girls overestimated their strength and it turns out that they can not manage a full bike, and electric scooter does not go far.
So we moved spontaneously change plans on two motorcycles south of Yangsho. After 30 minutes the way we really turned into some kind of a quiet lane. It is not no cars, no motorcycles, no velosipeistov or pedestrians. Simply beautiful views of karst mountains, rice terraces, Li River … a great asphalt, a warm wind in your face. What else is needed?
I had such a dream – just rush on a motorcycle to the hot wind in your face, good road, palm trees around the coast of ocean with white sand beaches. And you just mchishsya, no matter where, just mchishsya.
In general, it was a memorable day. We stopped for lunch in some remote little village, bought from any local exotic fruits, down to the river to bathe, tried to conquer one of the peaks on the bikes and cross the river ford. In total, spent hours on the road 6. I used a half a tube of sunscreen, not to be like the majority of European tourists in Yangsho.
In the evening, on returning to the city revealed that Oscar – a local celebrity. He’ll say hello on the street, it is known in many bars. I do not know what the secret, but we were lucky and we first knew him as a simple guy from Miami. Despite the fact that we have returned almost exhausted, already traditional party at the bar on the roof of our hostel lasted late into the night. At some point, the bartender offered us with Oscar to walk with him through the streets in order to lure the entire European youth in our bar. He even published some ridiculous flyers. I could not believe that this way of working. But after half an hour in my hands, not a single flyer, and the return to the bar, I found half of those people whom we met on the street. Perhaps the secret was that presenting the flyer you received a free small bucket of cheap cocktail free. The evening was a success. The next day, the Oscar went, and I realized what was the secret of his popularity;) Now at the rooftop bar at Monkey Jane`s GuestHouse poured me free =)

Reader, you probably thought that I was too much to write about partying in bars and clubs. And so it is. In general, this was the reason that I’m here for almost a week do not appear online. In fact, it’s a small digression is not about parties in bars, and that spending on travel for a long amount of time you get tired. Yes, from traveling too can be tiring. This does not mean that I’m back and I no longer interesting to travel. Just sometimes you want to take a couple of days – a week “vacation” and do nothing.

On the feast of the body, for the holiday soul

The next morning, I realized that the party had enough. I wanted a healthy lifestyle. I’m well-versed in the area, I know where you can eat cheap and tasty, I know a place where just nice to sit in the shade under a tree and think about what is going on in my life, sipping fresh mango juice.
a couple of days ago while cycling through the city, I found one vegetarian cafe-hostel. In addition to any vegetarian delicacies and then cook the food for the mind. Every day there are various trainings, retreats, detox, yoga and meditation session. Has long been thought to try to attend Omen start meditating. And today a great day to finally do it.
Sanz, who leads meditation Daniel. He is European, but most of his life in India. He asked me a few questions about my preparation for meditation and how I came to it, and we went to the roof of the hostel, in a cozy studio, more like a sports hall. Daniel immediately made it clear that he did not teach me to meditate at this time. We just sit down, close your eyes and sit so exactly one hour. Earlier than an hour can not run away. It was chelledzh for me.
Disable train of thought did not happen, but I caught a certain state. So meditation broke my brain, at least half a day. decided that I should try to meditate regularly.

How do I lit the first time in China

Said goodbye to Daniel, jumped on the bike and moved out of town, along the scenic river. Meditation continued in the way. It’s just you, and this bike path. I had various interesting thoughts in a way that I have never visited before. So, after a couple of hours I was in one of the villages.
Every local knows there are only two words in the English language – “Hello” and “Bamboo”. It is a woman among the rice terraces, sees you, raises his head and says: “Helo! Bamboo?”. Children riding bikes and meet again: “Hello! Bamboo?”.
In this village, as in many others, which are located on the banks of the famous Li River in China and its tributaries, the locals ply tourist rafting on bamboo rafts. Services for this traditional Chinese and technology of production of bamboo boat has not changed for thousands of years.
My plan was just entering alloy downstream, in the opposite direction. Still pedaling on the sweltering heat is much more difficult to move on motorcycle or elektrobayka.
According to the navigator, I drove away from the city kilometers on 12. locals constructive conversation does not work, because hard to explain in what kind of place I need to raft and I want to take on board this little raft and your bike. Tell me – do not use in China via pomogaek. But the other way could not come up. Pomogaykoy was a woman of about 40, who spoke a little English. She wrung her price – 280 yuan for the way back (~ 1600 rubles), which of course did not suit me. After wandering around the village, I realized that apart from her boat operator vryat someone will be able to clearly explain where I need and how to raft. Having bought her some homemade potato chips and fruit juice I started to bargain and knocked the price down to 150 yuan. Expensive, but much better than 280. In parting, the woman said that the road will take about an hour and help it Godspeed. Oh, I almost forgot, she gave me even a printed ticket for this beautiful craft. Price travel on the ticket precaution was not specified.
And here I will ship to the raft. Satisfied that the way back I have to just relax and enjoy the scenery while sipping Fresh. Strongly not relax because we periodically go through the rapids on which our bamboo raft behaves very confident and each time it seems that this is now a rope and untie the raft float to the right and to the left of the =)
The first time I thought about that then something went wrong when he discovered that the driver of the boat is not particularly bother rowing. We are ahead of one boat, two, three. I told him: “let’s podnazhmi”, 12 kilometers after all, at a pace we are only in the evening sailing. Even took second oar and began to help him. But it does not work. Forty minutes later, the approach path to the next threshold of our raft ran into shore. I was going to push him away, but the driver hard dragged further raft ashore. I told him “we have no time to do a halt, so we are knocked out of the schedule.” The rest of the boats continue to sail on. Here is the devil take my bike and uploads it to the bank. I take the navigator. We sailed just 2 km. And he told me this “let’s continue on the bike here on this path.” There was a skirmish, which resulted, drowned in the river, my tourist card and a ticket for the boat. Chinese pretended that everything is as it should was waved to me and said “Jai Jane” and was gone.

Here I stand in the middle of the rice terraces. The grass is knee. Ride a bicycle is impossible, because the rice terraces are arranged in such a way that the figure was always in the water. There everywhere trenches for water supply, and a path width of 20 inches as it rises above this manure which grows rice. Went and mother. I thought back to the village and try to take the money back, it is still far away, just 2 km … But ticket drowned. And even if I meet this woman again, she is likely to make an appearance that does not speak in English.
Remembering that the adventure begins when something went wrong, I started to get to some more or less normal way. It was an unforgettable experience – to get back to the city the remaining 10 kilometers of the lost every village. Superskie peyzhazi. No highway, just going literally the garden beds. A couple of times bludanul, but managed to get back before dark in the city. In general for their 150 yuan, I received an excellent adventure. And even a little river rafting ;)

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